Tag: Kitty

That Perfect Shirt

(…for a given value of perfect)

This is the story of Kitty yanking out all her fur while trying to design the perfect shirt for as many women’s bodies as possible, preferably without having to personally fit them all one at a time. 

If you read my last blog on what makes a shirt fit properly, you already know how challenging it is just to get reasonably good fit.  But I wanted this new design to have all of the following assets too:

  1. A simple enough line so you could wear it often, but also stylish enough that it doesn’t look like you bought it at Fast-Fashions-‘R’-Us.  Basically, you should be able to wear it under a business blazer AND a Victorian corset equally appropriately.
  • Some adjustability.  Much as I would love to have a separate pattern for each common figure variation (bust size, hip size, waist length, sleeve girth, etc), we’re not a mega-corporation with a sweatshop.  One Kitty can only sew so many things in a day, and we don’t have room to carry (or store) thousands of shirts.  Which means that there would need to be built-in features made for flexing around your diverse shapes.
  • Affordability, within reason.  Everybody needs a shirt that fits.  On the other hand, a truly custom-fitted, hand-made blouse, constructed with decent materials with all the fine details I’d like it to have, tends to cost about as much as a small car.  So, compromise is going to be a thing.

So this is the design so far:

We’re going with a standing collar because it gives a finished look without being generic.  I started with a front that closed all the way up the neck, but nixed that idea in favour of this neckline with a narrow V-shaped notch.  Seriously, no one can handle something buttoned under the chin unless you have a swan-like neck and chiselled jawline.  I actually really love the way this neckline turned out — oddly elegant and elongating.  Totally worth the dozens of attempts that it took.

The sleeves are three-quarter length, lightly gathered into a narrow cuff.  The cuff echoes the collar and pulls the look together, and the gathering adds a definite but not over-the-top softness.  Also, it accommodates more kinds of arms, softening the skinny and making room for the billowy.  I can’t be the only one with massive biceps compared to the rest of me, right?  And three-quarter is a universally flattering length, which also happens to look great even if your arms are an inch or three longer or shorter than average.

There is no way to adjust the bust fit on a fitted shirt that I know of.  I suppose I’ll just have to make these in multiple cup sizes.  Oh well.  But it’s worth it!  See how marvellous a shirt can look when it correctly cups your bosom and actually nips in at the waist?

The upper back actually has a built-in adjustment for a forward shoulder.  This is the one alteration you really need that you didn’t know you needed; almost EVERYONE needs it in this age of computers.  Your shoulders and neck curve forward more than they used to back when everyone was out chasing antelope or show-jumping on horseback.  This is why store-bought shirts sometimes fall back off the shoulder and, in extreme cases, crawl up and try to choke you (lots of people avoid high necklines just for this reason, and this is why you often have to pull your shirt down in the front).  See how the shoulder seam is shifted ever so slightly forward?

The blue ribbon in the previous photo is where a conventional shoulder seam sits.  It’s a very small change, but it ensures that the shirt will stay put on your shoulders.

There are adjustable lacings in the back.  Firstly, no one has the same waist length, and secondly, you may have no bum, an average bum, or a really fabulous bum with the full swayback deal.  A little manipulation of these lacings will help most of us skirt the issue, just enough to achieve decent fit.  I detest sewing loops, and I tried many ways to get around it, but I had to admit defeat — the lacing system really works well, and adds a nice detail besides.

It’s so much simpler to make the hem straight all the way around, but stark horizontal line right at the hip doesn’t do us any favours, especially in a crisp fitted item like this.  Ergo, we have a gently curved hem, which is a headache to sew correctly, but makes your legs look longer and enhances your curvature.  It’s subtle and you wouldn’t consciously notice it, but believe me, it makes a difference.

I’m satisfied (for now) that this us the best off-the-rack shirt I can make.  I realize that everything looks good on Amelia, my trusty and completely inhuman-looking dress form, but honestly, this looks halfway decent on me too (linebacker shoulders, Hanoverian bosom, no waist, hip-deficient, bum-less, truly epic biceps), which is rather a feat for any blouse.  There is a reason you’ve never, ever seen me in a button-down-style shirt before.

I may have ripped out all my hair while stitching the million or so sample shirts to get to this point, but hopefully it will be worth it in the end.  The plan is to debut these (yes, with different cup sizes) in April at Calgary, so come help me test out the prototypes. Then as usual, I’ll probably end up making a host of changes based on your suggestions.

Next up: Steampunk goes to Hogwarts.

The Pocket Problem

Where Kitty tackles a long-standing fashion nuisance

Not enough women’s clothes have pockets. 

I used to have no idea why this was the case, and sometimes, I still don’t (what is the point of a fake pocket?  Also, why are women’s jeans pockets half the size of men’s?).  But now that I’m designing clothes, I sort of understand that you can’t just slap a pocket on everything and call it a day.

To make a long story short, pockets add bumps to the lines of a sleek fitted garment, and they spoil the drape of a soft, loose one.  When design lines permit, I sneak the odd pocket in there, hidden where they’re least likely to interfere with the serious business of looking fabulous.  But what I wanted next was a proper flowing skirt with proper deep pockets that could fit a proper busy woman’s basic kit (phone, wallet, keys, maybe a good-sized sandwich).

I’ve made one skirt with a hidden side seam pocket before.  The Maru Skirt does a decent job of holding a small purse’s worth of stuff in its pockets, mainly because it’s a genuine full circle.  The opulent swathes of fabric flares out and hide many sins. 

However, I’m more of a long skirt girl these days, what with the onset of winter and varicose veins and all.  And you really, really can’t stroll about my small town in a maxi-length full-circle skirt without looking like a lost Disney princess.  But a less extravagant amount of skirt inevitably means that pockets and their contents bump through, which is normally fine, but occasionally offends my designer sensibilities. 

Ergo, here’s a totally different approach.  Like marketing always says, if you can’t fix it, feature it.  After a few bashes, this is what I came up with:

Full View

The skirt is full enough to feel rich and not restrict even a wide walking pace, but restrained enough so I can go buy some milk without my horse and carriage.  The gathers are at just the right height to camouflage the contents of the (quite generously deep and wide) pockets and also, if you’re so inclined, any extra tummy or hip fluff.   But the pockets themselves are definitely the focal point.

Pocket Close-Up

The pocket opening is big enough for your hand to easily slip through (I’ve found this to be a problem in a lot of ready-to-wear clothes and commercial patterns.  Is this common, or do I just have giant gorilla paws?).  The pocket bag is deep enough securely to hold a water bottle or a smallish cat, if it’s not too wriggly. 

Non-Wriggly Cat in Pocket

Also, the pockets sit low enough so you don’t have to hike up your elbows to get your hands into them, and so they don’t fight with whatever you’re wearing on your upper body.  A lot of the many designs I studied for inspiration had the pockets situated too high on the hips, just where you DON’T want extra bulk.  And if you’re planning on wearing your corset with the skirt, you still want access to your pocket openings.  Imagine if these pockets were just an inch or two too high: 

Pockets Still Accessible

Finally, though I prefer the wide fabric selection of wovens (which are generally not stretchy), I still want the freedom to retain water and eat an entire turkey if I feel like it!  So there’s the waist yoke made from four-way stretch material, which makes for a smooth sleek fit around the waist but also loads of comfort.  It’s so comfy you could wear this to a ball in style, then come home and wear it as jammies. 

I love this skirt, and I’m actually planning on making one from polar fleece for the winter.  Now I just have to spend about sixty hours grading the pattern to all the sizes before making prototypes for people to test.  If anyone wonders what Kitties do during the long winter days, now you know….

New Products for 2018

Kitty has been doing a lot of designing through the winter, and it’s finally time to post a few snaps of four new products that we’ll be previewing at Calgary Comic (April 26-29, 2018).


A new shrug with a hood.

Cascade Skirt

The hemline cascades from front to back.


The hood and shoulders of a full cloak without the bulk.  Also lets you show off the rest of your outfit.

Cupcake Skirt

A new short skirt.

10th Anniversary Sale at CCEE

Kitty has been designing some new products.  I’ll post some photos once she’s done.  But new products mean we have to discontinue certain older products.  So it’s time to celebrate our first decade with a sale!

Our accumulated stock of Showgirl Skirts, Men’s Tailcoats, and Victorian Adjustable Skirts are all now 50% off.  Please note that this only applies to the pieces we’ve already made and have in stock, not new pieces.  Once they are gone, we’re not making any more.

UPDATE: We’ve added Boleros, Women’s Vests and Poet Shirts to the sale!

We’ll be bringing what inventory we have left to Calgary Comic, but if you want one before that while the selection is good, please order before April 16th.

See you in Calgary April 26-29, 2018!