Category: Blog

Blouses for Bountiful Bosoms

(…and other lost causes)

By Kitty

If you have a generous bosom, odds are your shirts don’t fit. 

I don’t mean spandex T-shirts that can stretch over the Taj Mahal.  I mean dress(ish) shirts with actual buttons and a collar that you could actually wear to a job interview, or Cousin Sally’s sixth wedding.  The bigger your bust, the harder it is to find a blouse that stays decently buttoned without pulling across your breasts – unless it’s a vast tent that drowns the rest of your torso in enough excess fabric to conceal an Alsatian. 

As you already know, the fashion industry mostly consists of people who think all women are built like 10-year-old boys, maybe with plums in their breast pockets.  If you look at the average “women’s” shirt, you’ll find that its anatomy is basically the same as a man’s shirt: flat front and back.  You might get curved seams, usually only at the sides, if someone wants you to think it’s extra-feminine. 

Spoiler alert: your breasts don’t grow out of your sides, so curving the side seams do exactly nothing toward fitting them.  If there isn’t a seam or dart that actually touches the peak of your puppies, that shirt will NEVER fit you correctly.

Allow your Aunt Kitty to illustrate.  Meet Amelia, my unrealistic dress form.  She is shaped like no woman ever, but she’ll do to demonstrate how bust fit works.

Amelia has a fairly generous bust, disproportionately tiny waist, and moderate hips.  By measurements, she’s something like a DD cup.  But because of the huge bust-to-hip ratio, you will really be able to see how cup size in shirts work. 

For instance, here is a shirt mock-up made to her supposed size, but with no shaping other than at the side seams (I left the sleeves off, so you get an unobstructed view of the torso).  This is essentially an A-cup equivalent.

Does this look familiar? The shirt gapes open over the fullest part of the chest, and because she’s rigid, I can’t even pull it closed (if she was squishy, like human breasts, you’d be able to force the buttons closed, until they popped off and flew across the room).  The area below the bust is super-boxy, and completely hides the fact that she has a magnificent waist.

From the side, you can see pull lines pointing to where the bust is desperately trying to steal some fabric to cover itself, and the pulling actually causes even the back waist to ride up and get all weird and wrinkly over the butt.  If you’re a D cup or larger, you’ve been there.

Now, here’s a different shirt, but note that this one has actual seams running over the middle of both the front and back panels; it’s drafted to a B cup:  

I picked the pattern size according to Amelia’s BUST size, meaning it fits pretty well there.  But now it’s baggy and loose at the waist, hips, and back, though it’s a huge improvement over the no-shaping-at-all shirt.

Now, for illustration purposes, look at the exact same B-cup shirt pattern, but this time, I used the size intended for her WAIST measurement instead of the bust.  This one fits better over the waist and hips, but you can’t get it closed over the chest.

Finally, look at the same design, but with a DD cup size.  Ladies, this is how your shirts are supposed to fit.

Why don’t all the clothing manufacturers make clothes this way, with actual shaping seams that travel over the actual bits of you that stick out and need actual shaping?  Would it kill them to offer tops in different cup sizes?

In fact, it just might.  It took me three times as long to cut and sew together the pink shirts (with the extra seams that go over the bust and back shoulders) than the red one with only side seams.  Not only do clothes made with built-in shaping usually need more pattern pieces, the pieces themselves are more complex and the seams are more curved, making them much harder to stabilize and stitch accurately. 

As an indie designer who still does all my own sewing, I’m willing to take the extra time and care – but if I were a mass-manufacturing giant who makes millions of each piece, the cost would be drastically higher, especially if the target market just wanted low-priced fast fashion.  Maybe high enough to drive me out of the business altogether.

Even for me, making each size in multiple cup sizes means investing many times the amount of time and materials for any given design, and carrying around three or four times as much inventory when we go to events (and we only have so much storage space!).  I sort of understand why not many people offer this option. 

Still, as a woman who has NEVER (never, never, never, ever) found a shirt that fit until I started sewing for myself, I’m finally planning on giving it a go.  So, this is my design project for the upcoming season – fitted button-down shirts for every bosom!  I’ll try to document my progress in the next blog.

Obviously, real bodies have fit issues other than just bust-related.  We’ve got wide or narrow hips, flat or protruding bums, long and short waists, wide or skinny biceps, square or sloping shoulders, and a hundred more variations.  Any and all of those can look marvellous if you fit them right, and as Amelia proves, the most idealized figure can look dumpy if the fit is wrong. 

The next time you have a frustrating shopping experience, try and remember that it’s not your body that’s at fault, but an industry that prioritized cheap mass production and absurd standards over you, their customer.   And also that when we prove that we want diversely shaped, properly made clothing and are willing to pay what it’s worth, maybe (just maybe) the industry will decide it’s worth making.

Corset Sale 2019 – Update C

UPDATE (January 2020): This post is obsolete as we’ve moved everything to do with sale corsets to

We finally managed to sort and document the updated inventory of which sale corsets we have remaining. Thanks for your patience.

Note all the photos are upside down (i.e., the top of the corset is facing you) because it was the only way to get the tags in the pictures.

(*** inventory photos removed Jan 24, 2020 – see above ***)

As always, if you have any questions, please contact us.

The Pocket Problem

Where Kitty tackles a long-standing fashion nuisance

Not enough women’s clothes have pockets. 

I used to have no idea why this was the case, and sometimes, I still don’t (what is the point of a fake pocket?  Also, why are women’s jeans pockets half the size of men’s?).  But now that I’m designing clothes, I sort of understand that you can’t just slap a pocket on everything and call it a day.

To make a long story short, pockets add bumps to the lines of a sleek fitted garment, and they spoil the drape of a soft, loose one.  When design lines permit, I sneak the odd pocket in there, hidden where they’re least likely to interfere with the serious business of looking fabulous.  But what I wanted next was a proper flowing skirt with proper deep pockets that could fit a proper busy woman’s basic kit (phone, wallet, keys, maybe a good-sized sandwich).

I’ve made one skirt with a hidden side seam pocket before.  The Maru Skirt does a decent job of holding a small purse’s worth of stuff in its pockets, mainly because it’s a genuine full circle.  The opulent swathes of fabric flares out and hide many sins. 

However, I’m more of a long skirt girl these days, what with the onset of winter and varicose veins and all.  And you really, really can’t stroll about my small town in a maxi-length full-circle skirt without looking like a lost Disney princess.  But a less extravagant amount of skirt inevitably means that pockets and their contents bump through, which is normally fine, but occasionally offends my designer sensibilities. 

Ergo, here’s a totally different approach.  Like marketing always says, if you can’t fix it, feature it.  After a few bashes, this is what I came up with:

Full View

The skirt is full enough to feel rich and not restrict even a wide walking pace, but restrained enough so I can go buy some milk without my horse and carriage.  The gathers are at just the right height to camouflage the contents of the (quite generously deep and wide) pockets and also, if you’re so inclined, any extra tummy or hip fluff.   But the pockets themselves are definitely the focal point.

Pocket Close-Up

The pocket opening is big enough for your hand to easily slip through (I’ve found this to be a problem in a lot of ready-to-wear clothes and commercial patterns.  Is this common, or do I just have giant gorilla paws?).  The pocket bag is deep enough securely to hold a water bottle or a smallish cat, if it’s not too wriggly. 

Non-Wriggly Cat in Pocket

Also, the pockets sit low enough so you don’t have to hike up your elbows to get your hands into them, and so they don’t fight with whatever you’re wearing on your upper body.  A lot of the many designs I studied for inspiration had the pockets situated too high on the hips, just where you DON’T want extra bulk.  And if you’re planning on wearing your corset with the skirt, you still want access to your pocket openings.  Imagine if these pockets were just an inch or two too high: 

Pockets Still Accessible

Finally, though I prefer the wide fabric selection of wovens (which are generally not stretchy), I still want the freedom to retain water and eat an entire turkey if I feel like it!  So there’s the waist yoke made from four-way stretch material, which makes for a smooth sleek fit around the waist but also loads of comfort.  It’s so comfy you could wear this to a ball in style, then come home and wear it as jammies. 

I love this skirt, and I’m actually planning on making one from polar fleece for the winter.  Now I just have to spend about sixty hours grading the pattern to all the sizes before making prototypes for people to test.  If anyone wonders what Kitties do during the long winter days, now you know….

Ivy Shrugs and Cupcake Skirts On Sale!

We’ve decided to make a little room on our racks by clearing out a couple of products. Our existing stock of Ivy Shrugs and Cupcake Skirts is now 50% off. This only applies to our existing inventory only. We will still make new pieces to order at regular prices.

We’ll be bringing our sale inventory of both these products to Saskatoon Entertainment Expo and the Edmonton Comic & Entertainment Expo in September 2019. Once this half-off stock is gone, it’s gone.

Here are a few photos illustrating the common colours we have right now in Cupcake Skirts:

And here are the common options for Ivy Shrugs:

Corset Sale at Animethon

UPDATE (January 2020): This post is obsolete as we’ve moved everything to do with sale corsets to

Felix & Kitty 50%-off Corset Clearance Sale!

We’ve been around more than ten years now, and, in that time, we’ve ended up with a LOT of variety in our corset collection, far more than we can carry around to events and shows.  

So, for the first time in Edmonton, just as we did at the Calgary Comic Expo, we’re putting over half the Felix and Kitty corset collection drastically on sale!  Discontinued materials, one-off colours, and just about every item that’s not one of our few core fabrics is currently 50% off. We’ll be bringing most of these half-off corsets to Animethon.  

FYI, this sale applies only to in-stock items, and generally won’t include stock colours like black, brown, and perennial best-sellers.  Corsets made from these “sale” fabrics will still be available to order in the future (for regular prices, of course), but we won’t be carrying them for off-the-rack purchase.  

IMPORTANT NOTE: All clearance corsets are sole AS IS, without any warranties or future free repairs like our regular-price corsets.  No exchanges, returns, etc. etc. etc.. Sale corsets are exactly like regular ones except that we’ve discontinued these colours, but if you still want the full after care package, maybe skip the sale and stick to normal-priced ones.