Part 1: The reason why, followed by a bit of design

We had our first frost of the year last night! 

When the weather shifts toward winter, a Kitty’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of coats.  Lovely warm insulated coats in fun prints and bright colours, which fit perfectly and lets me move all I want.  So off I went to a shop, all ready to give the nice people money for my fantasy winter coat. 

Then I ran smack into a cartload of reality.  To summarize:

Reality 1: My upper and lower body belong to different people

I am over-abundantly gifted in the breast department, and failed to show up the day they were handing out bums.  If something fits me in the hips, it hasn’t a hope of going around my upper body.  If it fits me at chest level, it’s huge everywhere else.

By all accounts, this happens to loads of other folks, though more often it’s the other way around, since the majority of women have hips that are larger around than their bust.  In any case, I could not find anything that remotely fit — at least not both halves of me at the same time.

Reality 2: I am a statistically normal-sized woman (which is a problem…?!)

More or less normal, anyway.  My measurements (though not my proportions) are pretty darn close to the average North American woman’s, though I’m a couple of inches taller.  To the fashion industry, that apparently means I am a bison-like behemoth who should only wear shapeless sacks, preferably in black.  My selection in ready-to-wear is, to put it kindly, limited.   

I hadn’t tried to buy clothes from a shop in about twelve years until this point, so I had forgotten just how out of touch with reality fashion sizing can be.  For reference, I scale the sizing of all my own designs so the size “Medium” is a STATISTICAL medium.  Meaning that the most common size for my customers tended to be, well, Medium, followed by small and large. 

That does actually make sense, right?  Medium should reflect something like the average size in a given community of humans.  I never could see why people who fell into a Small or X-Small in our size range kept claiming they usually took size XXL or something. 

At least now I have a better understanding, if not a coat I’m willing to buy.

Reality 3: Some parts of me are NOT statistically normal

I have proportionally wide biceps, and the intense weight-lifting regimen I’ve been on during the stay-at-home period hasn’t exactly made them more delicate and sylphlike.  All the extra muscle mass also only adds to the linebacker shoulders I always had (I was a competitive swimmer in my wasted youth). 

Though I’m probably bulkier in the shoulders and back than normal, I’m sure I’m not the only person to find coats or jackets really binding when reaching forward or raising the arms.  Or, for that matter, to feel like every piece of clothing always has sleeves that are just a bit too tight.

Why I’m making a winter coat

I have never bought a winter coat that fit me.  Anything that can close around my bountiful bosoms and wide back ends up being a flapping tent around the waist and hips.  My raggedy old coat is massively baggy everywhere EXCEPT at bust level.  And of course, black, because that’s all there was in that size range when I bought it.  Yes, this is before I started sewing.

That kind of boxy fit makes anyone look huge.  Now, I’m a substantial person and I happen to be just fine with the amount of space I take up in the world.  But that doesn’t mean I want to look like I’m smuggling a troop of badgers under my coat. 

More importantly, all that excess space makes a coat awfully draughty, which is a real problem for someone who likes to go for daily five-mile walks come rain or snow.  If that makes me a madwoman, I’d prefer to be a snuggly warm madwoman.

Funnily, in spite of being way too big, the old coat feels super-restrictive whenever I take it into my head to do something fun, like climb a tree or pelt Felix with snowballs.  Something about the cut of the shoulders and back doesn’t play nicely with my shape, and it’s the same story for every ready-to-wear coat I tried on.  If I want this fixed, I’ll have to do it myself.

What makes a perfect coat?

Perfect for me, anyway.  I imagine you have your own ideas.

My perfect coat needs some kind of shaping that builds in curves over the bust and upper back, either with seam lines or darts.  The alternative is to go right back to huge and boxy, which kind of defeats my purpose. 

The sleeves need to be roomy enough for both my generous biceps and multiple layers of clothing.   The line of the shoulder and upper back has to follow and move with my body well enough so I can do cartwheels if I feel like it.

I also want it to look at least somewhat stylish, since it’s the only thing anyone is likely to see me wearing all winter.  Most importantly, of course, it has to be warm enough for the local winter, which can see -25°C on occasion (I realize that’s not much to a born Canadian, but I plead weakness due to a tropical upbringing).

The design, Mark 1

The sketch at the beginning is my starting point.  I chose princess seams both front and back, because I think this is the easiest way to accommodate my chest and my muscular upper back while keeping things fitted at the waist.  The high closed collar should keep my neck warm, and the storm flaps are 1) cute and 2) extra protection against weather. 

Raglan sleeves (the kind that go all the way up to the neckline and doesn’t have a shoulder/sleeve seam) are great for mobility and for making enough arm room without resorting to gathered sleeves.  Mind you, I love me a gathered sleeve, but it’s probably a bit much for a winter coat I’ll most likely wear while shovelling alpaca poo. 

Add some big patch pockets for warming my paws and an ever-so-slightly flared skirt so I can pretend I have hips, and we’re golden.

Closing reflections

For someone who designs and sews clothes for a living, I don’t often make everyday items for myself.  I’ve just been too busy trying to make enough items for sale.  The pandemic changed all that, basically pushing pause on the business.

But in all that chaos, I suddenly found myself with time.  It’s been ten years since I last had any of that to spare.  So for the next few days or weeks, I intend to indulge in some slow sewing, and document the process. 

If you’ve ever wondered how one of my designs go from random idea to finished product, this is pretty much the process — except that this time, I’m only trying to please myself instead of obsessing about what everyone else might want.

At this moment, this project is just that pencil drawing.  Next time, I’ll be turning  the sketch into a pattern and a test garment.  If it works out, I’ll make the final version; otherwise, for all I know, I’ll scrap the design and start over again.  

There are quite a few more steps to go, hopefully before the snow arrives, so I will be back at it again quite soon.  The forecast says it may snow before Halloween.   Eeep.  Pray for me.

Until then, stay safe and toasty!

Masks that don’t hurt your ears.  Really.

By Kitty

UPDATE (Nov 2020): A lot of changes and new knowledge have come to light since this blog was written.  Some of this content is still accurate, but some of it may have become obsolete.  Please read the more recent mask-related blogs for up-to-date information regarding the COVID-19 pandemic and mask-related issues.

Last week, I wrote an article that tried to sum up several popular methods for relieving ear pain from face mask elastics.

Every method, from ties to S-hooks to Princess Leia space buns, have their pros and cons.  I discussed these at length, so I won’t go over that again.  Today is all about my current favourite way to save our ears from the menace of mask elastics: the adjustable strap with Velcro closures.

What are Ear Rescue straps?

Ear Rescue straps are basically soft flat fabric bands which can be fastened behind your head at any height that works best for you, depending on the shape of your head and your personal preferences.  The top  of the mask uses these, and the bottom half uses a soft flat underwear-grade elastic designed to go right against skin.  As far as I can tell, no one else seems to be offering this dual system at this time.

The two-strap system: the adjustable upper strap

I chose to use a goodly length of hook-and-loop tape (aka Velcro) to fasten the upper straps, because this means  they 1) are easy to do up, even for people with joint and/or dexterity issues,  2) are size-adjustable, and 3) don’t lose tension and slip like tied knots, even after long wear. 

These adjustable Velcro-closed top straps do most of the work of holding the mask in place.  Once you fasten them at the right height for you (you may need to experiment to find the sweet spot on yourself), they’re remarkably secure. 

We tested ours for several hours of wear, during which we really gave them a workout (in Kitty’s case, including repeatedly putting on and taking off a high-necked top with the mask still on).   They stayed firmly in place, and more importantly, our ears were still perfectly comfortable at the end of the day. 

The elastic lower strap (and why I didn’t use a second adjustable Velcro strap)

The lower part of the mask has a one-piece elastic strap that can either rest on or under your hair, roughly at the base of your head or nape of your neck.  I specifically chose to use very soft underwear/lingerie-grade elastic which is intended for direct skin contact.

Incidentally, I did test a second Velcro-fastened set of straps for the lower part of the mask, but rejected the idea for a couple of reasons.   First, the back of the neck is a high-mobility area on your body, and having a non-stretch strap on it felt pretty restrictive.  This can result in digging-in, neck and shoulder tension, or even headaches. 

Second, Velcro can feel quite scratchy on sensitive skin for people who have short or no hair, or who prefer to have the lower strap under their hair.  It drove me crazy in under ten minutes, so I ditched the idea right there.  I happen to know I have a hide like a rhinoceros, so if it bothers me, it’s going to irritate almost everyone else.

Anyway, you don’t even NEED an tight or adjustable strap to hold the lower part of the mask in place — in fact, you hardly need anything at all.  The customized fit of the upper strap held the mask so securely that in my testing, the lower elastic served as more of a back-up than an actual necessity.

How to get Ear Rescue straps on your mask

You can upgrade your masks to have Ear Rescue straps (instead of the standard elastic ear loops or ties) by selecting the “Ear Rescue” option in the “Strap Style” drop-down box when you order your masks on the website. 

You should be able to add this option on to the “Put on a good Face,” Ziggurat, and Anteater mask styles. We’re not currently offering it for Accordion masks, because the straight-across-the-top cut of this mask style doesn’t play nicely with the angle at which the upper straps need to be attached.

We use enough Velcro so you can adjust the fit by a couple of inches, which is a lot in terms of head sizes.  But if you feel like you are the proud owner of a very small or very large head, you can always contact us, and we’ll walk you through the custom measurement process.

In conclusion

We truly hope that this new project/product brings some relief to those of you who continue to protect others and the community by wearing your masks.  Learning that some of you stuck it out with face masks even when they caused chafing, bruising, and pain shone a tiny light into my shrivelled misanthropic soul.  Perhaps the human species is worth saving after all…

Because Kitty hates pressing, and breathing is worth looking like an anteater.

By Kitty

UPDATE (Nov 2020): A lot of changes and new knowledge have come to light since this blog was written.  Some of this content is still accurate, but some of it may have become obsolete.  Please read the more recent mask-related blogs for up-to-date information regarding the COVID-19 pandemic and mask-related issues.

Yes, I look properly daft, like I’m hiding a snout in there.  But at least I’m comfy and I can breathe!

A couple of weeks ago, in response to an epic heat wave, I came up with a super-breathable 3D face mask concept.   It had a structured dome to keep the mask fabric from touching hot sticky skin and pleats for better lower face coverage.  It’s so much more pleasant to wear in hot weather, and looks more or less respectable:

It’s become the new favourite in the Felix & Kitty household, but to me, it has just one fatal flaw: pleats!

The Problem with Pleats

Don’t get me wrong — pleats are fantastic if you have a long face and/or chin, if you move your jaws a lot when you talk, or if you have a beard, because they open up to provide the extra space you need.  However, they are less fantastic if you aren’t a fan of pressing.

Fabrics, especially those deliciously breathable natural fibres I tend to use for my masks, tend to lose their crisp pressed lines after they go through a machine wash and dry cycle.   Meaning I need to iron those pleats after each laundering. 

As any responsible mask wearer knows, you really must wash your mask after EVERY SINGLE WEAR (if you don’t know this, you should seriously read through this guide for the safe wear and care of masks). That’s a whole lot of pressing pleats.  I’m a slovenly old goat that never presses a single other item in my wardrobe (unlike Mr. Kitty, aka Felix, who loves both his pleated masks and the act of pressing, which he calls “meditative”).  I just can’t be arsed to iron masks every time I go out.

Different Masks for Different Faces

The thing is, if you have a long face and/or chin, or a beard, you may just need to grit your teeth and press those pleats, because you need the extra coverage and lower face mobility that they provide.  I, however, have a short, round face and — thankfully, what with me being a woman and all — no beard, so I don’t actually need the pleats.

I’ve also decided that I don’t like nose wires.  Having a flatter nose bridge, I simply don’t require one, unlike people with those majestic Roman noses or aquiline profiles.  Felix, who is one of those people, pretty much HAS to have a nose wire, or the mask fabric won’t conform to the sharper angles of his nose bridge.  See the gaps when he tries a no-wire mask?

But anyway, I’m fine without either pleats or nose wires.  So I got to thinking.  How can I keep that lovely 3D loft of the Ziggurat mask, but with a more streamlined, no-pleats-needed shape? 

Creating a Cup (kind of like a bra cup, but not)

I really hate fabric touching my face, especially when it gets damp due to perspiration or condensing exhaled moisture.  I wanted as much free space between me and the mask as possible, so even if I was breathing hard (like during our multiple weekly hikes), I couldn’t accidentally snort mask fabric.

Coincidentally, one of the many projects I’ve been puttering with during my COVID-induced unemployment is the creation of the perfect bra.  I’ve been experimenting with many, many methods to mold fabric around my vine-ripened F-cup chest fruits.  It occurred to me that, in principle, I could use one of these methods to create a generous dome over my nose and mouth. 

So here’s what I came up with, after only about sixteen iterations or so:

I used a multitude of darts to shape a nice high cup that stays way, way up off my breathing passages.  In fact, for my facial structure at least, this mask only makes contact with my skin at the very outer rim. 

Refining the Shape

The shape itself is pretty simple, especially compared to the Ziggurat mask.  But the several small refinements were worth the time they took.  

For example, scooping out the curve under the eyes makes the top line conform better to my nose, and makes sure the fabric doesn’t stray into my vision.  A lot of designs out there don’t do this one little thing, so you end up having to tug down your mask all the time, which is a HUGE safety no-no.

I angled the side edges sharply to cut them more on the bias, so it has a built-in movement and better ability to follow different jawline shapes (if you’re not familiar with the concept, the bias or diagonal of a woven fabric is more flexible, and has the magical ability to form around curves — think of those slinky bias-cut 1930s dresses). 

As a bonus, I found a wire nose-piece quite unnecessary for this style, since the angle of the “snout” of the mask keeps the top line nicely glued to the relatively flat bridge of my nose. 

And oh, the vast cathedral roof-like space it makes!  I don’t even care that this mask makes me look like an anteater.  That big “snout” is just so much extra breathing space.

In Conclusion

As per usual, we will be throwing this style up on our mask website with our growing collection of assorted styles.  In summary, this mask is for you if you:

• Want to have lots and lots and LOTS of air space between you and the mask
• Don’t mind looking like an insect-munching primitive mammal in return for extra breathability
• Dislike pressing pleats
• Have a fairly short or wide face and a low to moderate nose bridge
• Don’t need to accommodate a big beard or longer chin
• Find nose wires uncomfortable

If you do have a longer face or chin or a big beard, you’ll probably want to stick with the pleated styles, like the Accordion or Ziggurat masks.   If you have a taller nose, these two styles will also be best for you, since they’re compatible with a wire nose-piece to force the fabric to mold properly around the sharper angles.  If you need a bit more guidance on figuring out the best mask type for you, you can look here (the page has been freshly updated).

For the rest of us, the new mask is a winner!  I already made myself a few of these, and have given them a literal-ish workout (wearing them for a proper HIIT session).  They were not comfortable as such after a maxed-out sprint, but I didn’t choke on fabric either, even while gasping for great gulps of air.  I’ll call that good enough for me, and a point for the Anteater mask.